58 Menswear Trends From SS15 Runways in Europe
This, gentlemen, is a comprehensive guide to all the menswear trends we saw on the runways at London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks. Some are already embraced to varying extents, some look to the future — both distant and just around the corner — and some might be less likely to stick; conceptual testament to a designer’s artistic vision, and not necessarily expected to be embraced by the masses. But often concepts that seem absurd on the runway are filtered and distilled into something that will eventually end up on the high street. You decide.
We’ve included colors that will be big for the season, but also color combinations that are on trend and might be merchandised together. We’ve included specific styles, silhouettes, patterns, and prints. We’ve included fabrics, footwear and accessories.
Did we miss anything?
*All designers listed from top left to right and bottom left to right throughout.
Compiled for MRketplace.com.
Literally so wide they would be equally at home on an awning, the stripes this season are bold and over-sized.
Ami, Costume National, Emporio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani
Gucci, Jonathan Saunders, Kenzo, Saint Laurent, E. Tautz.
Just when the rest of America was catching up to the slimmer, nay, even skinny pant, designers have pulled some sleight-of-hand, bait-and-switch trickery. Baggy trousers. Or perhaps it’s just a bid to keep the public on their toes. Either way: Keep up.
Agi & Sam, Christophe Lemaire, Giorgio Armani, Haider Ackermann, Maison Martin Margiela
Alexander McQueen, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Ports 1961, Versace, Wooyoungmi
Beige with a Pop
Beige and the rest of his neutral crew are out on the runways in full force this season, most notably worn mono-chromatically, head to toe. A pop of orange, yellow or pink though, gives a nice kick.
Calvin Klein Collection, Louis Vuitton, Richard James, Roberto Cavalli, Umit Benan.
The original brand has been around for over two hundred years, but their stalwart style of sandal have never had such a menswear moment.
Christophe Lemaire, Damir Doma, Dolce & Gabbana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Hermès
James Long, McQ Alexander McQueen, Michael Kors, Miharayasuhiro, Philipp Plein
Black and White
This most polar of contrasts is on almost every runway this season. From suits and separates to sportswear, with just two colors, the combination of these graphic tones is an easy option but also makes a strong statement.
Alexander Wang, Ami, Ann Demeulemeester, Carven, Costume National
Lanvin, Moschino, Thom Browne, Versace, Yohji Yamamoto
Black and Yellow
Steering clear of black and yellow horizontal stripes might be reasonable; too many bees and wasps and such make for a too-close comparison, but any other reservations held about this contrasting combination: dismiss them. Black and yellow are bee-utiful.
Berluti, Hardy Amies, Balmain, Boglioli
Dsquared, Etro, Moschino, Topman
Blue on Beige
Whether it’s beige outerwear over a light blue denim jean, or a slim beige suit over a light blue cotton shirt, the color combination is calm and easy, and put to good use in London, Paris and Milan.
Andrea Pompilio, Bally, Boglioli, Dsquared, Damir Doma
Ermenegildo Zegna, Fendi, Hermès, Margaret Howell, Prada
Blues on Blues
The biggest menswear color of the season (and for boys since the pink/blue baby lines were drawn), a mix of all shades under the umbrella, from bright blue sky to deep blue sea converge like ripples in a swimming pool.
Agi & Sam, Balenciaga, Boglioli, Brioni, Comme des Garcons
Issey Miyake, Jonathan Saunders, Kris Van Assche, Opening Ceremony, Prada
Made popular in the 80s by hip hop artists including LL Cool J and Run DMC, the bucket hat had been supplanted by the fitted cap. Now the style is getting some action again.
Canali, Burberry, Dsquared, Iceberg
Richard James, Wooyoungmi, Y-3, Yohji Yamamoto
Autumnal colors that have been sent like clock-work down fall/winter runways have packed their bags and migrated south to the warmer climes of spring/summer.
Burberry Prorsum, Berluti, Dolce & Gabbana, Vivienne Westwood, Dries Van Noten
Present on women’s runways for the last couple of seasons, now it’s menswear’s turn. Cobalt blue from luxury brands and more conceptual fashion houses alike.
Issey Miyake, Z Zegna, Philipp Plein, Sacai, Wooyoungmi
Perhaps the market is still adjusting to the return of the big D.B., back on runways but still not selling. Perhaps the slimmer silhouettes in softer constructions will move the market.
Burberry, Bally, Botega Veneta, Calvin Klein Collection, Etro
Versace, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Ports 1961, Umit Benan
Denim on Denim
Mis-matched denim was once a faux pas, and head to toe denim has similarly come in and out of fashion. Well, like all rules, they are made to be broken, and the trend doubles up as bolster for the blues-on-blues.
Andrea Pompilio, Christophe Lemaire, Moschino, Tom Ford, Topman
Vivienne Westwood, Kenzo, Margaret Howell, Prada, Yohji Yamamoto
Saks’ Eric Jennings recently described lounge wear as “the last frontier of fashion.” These might not appear on the streets anytime soon, but there is perhaps something about the Boglioli and Dries Van Noten examples that shows a hint of promise for street-assimilation.
Umit Benan, Boglioli, J.W. Anderson, James Long
La Perla, Dries Van Noten, Philipp Plein, Topman,
While the bomber is still big and on almost every runway, this zippered blouson is perhaps the next big thing. Still sporty, but a little less so, and a more luxury look than the bomber.
Opening Ceremony, Paul Smith, Brioni, Calvin Klein Collection, Damir Doma
Dunhill, Etro, Hardy Amies, Hermès, Jonathan Saunders
Floral in spring/summer just makes sense, and while we’re seeing them in bright colors as Mother Nature is wont to offer them, more neutral uses are perhaps the more prevalent this season.
Walter Van Beirendonck, Givenchy, Hermès, Iceberg, Pringle
Richard Nicoll, Roberto Cavalli, Saint Laurent, Thom Browne, Topman
If it’s Made In Italy, does that make Western-influenced collections Spaghetti Western? But the trend appears in collections including London-based Topman and Saint Laurent, and fringe isn’t limited to leather jacket-accents, like the scarf-style fringe on the bottom of Paul Smith’s T-shirts.
Katie Eary, Paul Smith, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Topman
While there is a grey area between these and the Birkenstock-style, there is a definite Roman influence as well as the German mentioned earlier. Dressed up by Brioni, Corneliani and Fendi, or more casually by Iceberg, Prada and Valentino, the leather strapped sandal is a summer shoe staple.
Brioni, Corneliani, Dsquared, Fendi, Giorgio Armani
Iceberg, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Sacai, Valentino
Those low-slung pants that make waists invisible and even the most blessèd behind look flat may have had their moment. Welcome back the high-waisted pant.
Ermenegildo Zegna, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Iceberg, Dries Van Noten
Paul Smith, Salvatore Ferragamo, Umit Benan, Vivienne Westwood
Now we said some of these trends may take time to transition to the streets, and some may never make it at all. Well, the jumpsuit is perhaps the toughest sell of the set (particularly the hot pink option from Louis Vuitton below), but given the number of jumpsuits on the runway, perhaps the market is out there…somewhere…
3.1 Philip Lim, Belstaff, Iceberg, Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton
Versace, Kenzo, Miharayasuhiro, Richard Nicoll, Walter Van Beirendonck
Knee Length Tailored Shorts
Long/short, wide/slim, shorts came in all shapes and sizes this season, but the knee-length tailored short is the style with the shortest distance to travel, from runway to shop floor to real live human.
Balenciaga, Brioni, Dries Van Noten, Ermenegildo Zegna, Givenchy
Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Paul & Joe, Philipp Plein, Versace
Picture prints are big, and these landscapes are like a room with a view.
J.W. Anderson, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Raf Simons, Topman
Leather pants were big too, but it’s the leather shorts that really got some runway action: more tailored options from Balenciaga, to big windsock-style ones from Dsquared.
Balenciaga, Dsquared, Bottega Veneta, Paul Smith, Philipp Plein
Light Blue Suits
Nothing says summer quite like light blue, and the collections in Europe were covered in it, but it was light blue suits in particular that really strutted their pale cerulean stuff (Pantone’s color of the millennium, in case you forgot).
Corneliani, Gieves & Hawkes, Giorgio Armani, Jonathan Saunders, Costume National
Topman, Marc Jacobs, Richard James, Richard Nicoll, Roberto Cavalli
From micro to fishnet, mesh crossed the border from performance wear to fashion. It’s all part of that athleisure thing.
Fendi, Lanvin, Lee Roach, Comme des Garcons, Moschino,
Versace, Raf Simons, Roberto Cavalli, Sacai, Viktor & Rolf
In the wake of Saint Laurent’s silver bomber jacket last season, metallic jackets got the green flag, mostly bombers, but some blazers and pants too.
3.1 Phillip Lim, James Long, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Nasir Mazhar
Neil Barrett, Dries Van Noten, Richard Nicoll, Y-3
Mixed Media Blazers
Simon Spurr really kicked this trend into gear in his last collection for his eponymous label, and the trend has been growing ever since. No longer limited to just arms, the whole body of the blazer is tailored with cutout patterns in different materials.
Alexander McQueen, Kenzo, Comme des Garcons, Balenciaga, Lanvin
Moncler Gamme Bleu, Paul Smith, Pringle of Scotland, Thom Browne, Y-3
Mixed Media Bombers
The hottest jacket right now, the runways were quite appropriately bombarded by bombers in every way imaginable, including the mixed media treatment.
APC, Bally, Calvin Klein Collection, Corneliani, Fendi
Givenchy, Hermès, Maison Martin Margiela, Neil Barrett, Philipp Plein
Stylists for what seemed like every collection used neck scarves, while ties were considerably more absent.
Belstaff, Boglioli, Costume National, Ermenegildo Zegna, Iceberg
Lanvin, Margaret Howell, Tom Ford, Emporio Armani, Ami
Neutrals on neutrals on neutrals; everything from tan, sand and khaki to cream, beige and taupe all put together like exploded desert storm camo.
Andrea Pompilio, Bottega Veneta, Berluti, Calvin Klein Collection, Fendi
Salvatore Ferragamo, Gieves & Hawkes, Hermès, Rag & Bone, Roberto Cavalli
While such in-your-face outfits are not for the faint of heart, the patterns in suiting this season were outstanding. From the more wearable repeat prints from Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander to the full-on art from Moschino or Walter Van Beirendonk, for a (much) more confident consumer.
Dolce & Gabbana, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Moschino, Valentino
Walter Van Beirendonck, Jonathan Saunders, Dries Van Noten, Brioni, Comme des Garcons
Patterns on Patterns
A little difficult to nail, pattern on pattern is at it’s most successful when the patterns are from the same palette. More muted options from Valentino, Damir Doma, and Yohji Yamamoto are probably the best place to start.
Yohji Yamamoto, Opening Ceremony, Comme des Garcons Shirt, Damir Doma
Issey Miyake, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood, Walter Van Beirendonck
Always a summer staple, but the pea coat is updated in cropped silhouettes from Gucci and Ports 1961, softer fabrics from Varvatos, and statement colors from Dior Homme and Gieves & Hawkes.
Balenciaga, Dior Homme, Gieves & Hawkes, Giorgio Armani,
Gucci, John Varvatos, Ports 1961, Tom Ford
This Schott silhouette is updated in bright colors and more muted tones, delivered in the typical leather, but also in butter-soft lamb skin and suede.
Gieves & Hawkes, Maison Martin Margiela, McQ Alexander McQueen, Neil Barrett, Off-White
A. Sauvage, Bally, Belstaff, John Varvatos, Versace
Suits in all shades of pink, from bubblegum at Etro, fuchsia from Boglioli, salmon from No. 21, and pale pinks from Marc Jacobs, Versace and Comme des Garcon.
Boglioli, Comme des Garcons, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro
Marc Jacobs, No. 21, Richard James, Versace
Always an option in suits, but this season also worn head to toe in shirts and pants from Dries Van Noten and J.W. Anderson, statement colors from Trussardi and Umit Bernan, or even a jumpsuit from 3.1 Philip Lim.
3.1 Phillip Lim, Costume National, Dior Homme, Dries Van Noten, E. Tautz
J.W. Anderson, Rag & Bone, Trussardi, Umit Benan, Yohji Yamamoto
With a collegiate feel, piping was not limited to the blazer, but also found action in outerwear.
Gucci, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Philipp Plein, Thome Browne, Valentino
It seemed a little like a witch hunt when, not so many seasons ago pleats suddenly lost all favor. Even people with no knowledge of or interest in fashion would point out someone’s pleats with a shake of the head and an under-the-breath tut. Well boys, they’re back in business, so if you are one of the unfortunate folk who threw out all your old pleated pants, get thee back to your nearest haberdashery and let this be a lesson to you all.
Christophe Lemaire, Emporio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani
Iceberg, Kris Van Asshe, Issey Miyake, Versace
While the lace-up incarnation of these gym-class heroes have been big business in European menswear, this simpler slip-on is supplanting it’s more fiddly sibling.
Berluti, Christophe Lemaire, Dsquared, Hermès, Marc Jacobs
Philipp Plein, Emporio Armani, Ports 1961, Rag & Bone, Richard James
Not quite dotting the runways with the vim and vigor of 2014, the polka dot is still present, in the over-sized offerings from Kenzo and Sibling, to the smiley-face sporting circles from Moschino.
Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Kenzo, Moschino, Sibling
This most royal of colors is shown in hues from the Tyrian purpura for which the color is named (Brioni, Costume National), to a more blue-tinted indigo (Burluti, Tod’s).
Dolce & Gabbana, Paul Smith, Berluti, Brioni
Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, Tod’s, Vivienne Westwood
While the double-breasted Burberry-style trench was present in numerous collections, it was the more minimal single-breasted raincoat that dominated the lightweight overcoat options this season, offered in classic neutrals, aforementioned blues and autumnal tones.
Balenciaga, Carven, Undercover, Berluti, Jonathan Saunders
Lou Dalton, Opening Ceremony, Paul & Joe, Prada, Andrea Pompilio
If Eisenhower’s zippered blouson is not the jacket of the season that we think it is, then the safari jacket is surely the next contender. Upscale elegance with a gentleman’s ruggedness, giving both form and function from all the most luxury labels.
Andrea Pompilio, Bally, Berluti, Burberry Prorsum, Dunhill
E. Tautz, Louis Vuitton, Maison Martin Margiela, Richard James, Tod’s
While tailored knee-length shorts will more readily reserve your modesty, many collections offer short (and shorter) options.
Calvin Klein Collection, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tom Ford, Etro, Gieves & Hawkes
Jil Sander, Kenzo, Michael Kors, Band of Outsiders, Boglioli
The short suit is a welcome seasonal alternative, with casual Fridays (but not too casual) written all over it. More formal incarnations may also be worn to weddings and fancy garden parties.
Balenciaga, Givenchy, Kris Van Assche, Lou Dalton, Michael Kors
Miharayasuhiro, Missoni, Paul & Joe, Philipp Plein, Comme des Garcons
Shrunken Suit Jackets
This trend took off in Japan a number of years ago, particularly the significantly shorter jacket that’s made it’s way to the West, and has influenced a (definitely more modest) reduction in our mass-market suit jacket lengths.
Diesel Black Gold, J.W. Anderson, Kris Van Assche, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Neil Barrett
Prada, Thom Browne, Viktor & Rolf, Walter Van Beirendonck, Wooyoungmi
These glorified flip-flops are branded or patterned and will pass for something more suitable than a thong.
Jil Sander, Band of Outsiders, Kris Van Assche, Raf Simons, Rag & Bone
Socks and Sandals
Yes, it’s true, that number one bastion and generation-enduring fashion faux pas of the century has surrendered. Louis Vuitton dipped a sockèd pinkie into the water, and the deluge that’s now evident has engulfed almost every collection. Embrace it. Your toes will be warmer, and only good can come of that.
3.1 Philip Lim, Agi & Sam, Band of Outsiders, Carven, Jil Sander
Marc Jacobs, Marni, McQ Alexander McQueen, Miharayasuhiro, Paul Smith
Championed by Boglioli, LBM and Berluti, the softcoat is now a staple. Simple.
Berluti, Boglioli, Issey Miyake, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Richard Nicoll
Consumer confidence and the jacket of the moment clash in a battle of contrast and color.
A. Sauvage, Brioni, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Iceberg
Jonathan Saunders, Miharayasuhiro, Moschino, Neil Barrett, Opening Ceremony
Athleisure is surely at its finest when sportswear and even tailored clothing are complemented by a pair of designer sweatpants. Also N.B.: gone are the flapping foot holes of recent: welcome back the elasticated cuff!
Bottega Veneta, Christophe Lemaire, Christopher Shannon, Etro, Gosha Rubchinskiy
Iceberg, Issey Miyake, J.W. Anderson, Neil Barrett, Umit Benan
Sun’s out: guns out. But less fist pump and more fashion, with graphic prints from Dolce & Gabbana, Kenzo and Raf Simons, or doubled up and contrasting from Calvin Klein Collection and Cerruti 1881.
Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Kenzo, Philipp Plein, Raf Simons
Roberto Cavalli, Calvin Klein, Cerruti 1881, Dolce & Gabbana, Dries Van Noten
Another typically autumnal color is stretching its legs and taking a summer vacation. Terracotta, and other shades of reddish brown are put together like our beloved neutrals, but a little bit bolder.
Kenzo, Louis Vuitton, Missoni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Berluti
A dedicated shout out to Bobby Abley for his fantastic Little Mermaid-inspired Sebastian the crab (see below), vermilion was pipped to the post only by the significantly more all-encompassing Blue. Shade for shade though, vermilion may take the win.
Bobby Abley, Burberry Prorsum, Canali, Costume National, Dolce & Gabbana,
Gucci, J.W. Anderson, Raf Simons, Sibling, Vivienne Westwood.
Like so many angels, models in head to toe white walked runways like purity personified.
Agi & Sam, Andrea Pompilio, Ann Demeulemeester, Christophe Lemaire, John Varvatos
Louis Vuitton, Neil Barrett, Richard James, Umit Benan, Versace
Not as notable as their bomber or zipped blouson brethren, the windbreaker was still present and correct.
Hermes, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Issey Miyake, Bottega Veneta
Checks of all shapes (well, mostly square) and sizes were seen, but the big windowpane check was superior.
3.1 Philip Lim, Ami, Boglioli, Emporio Armani
Etro, Giorgio Armani, Kris Van Assche, Thom Browne
While we will always anticipate the zig-zag from Missoni, it was fun to spot a similar motif in Topman, Paul Smith and Louis Vuitton. I wonder if designers at the three brands phoned each other and sent round sketches to set the trend…
Missoni, Paul Smith, Topman, Louis Vuitton