Pitti Uomo F/W14

Scooped up by Pitti Immagine from the Burberry Prorsum show at London Collections: Men, and one plane, one train, and various automobiles later, DandyLad arrived in Florence for Uomo’s 85th edition, and just in time for guest designer Diesel Black Gold’s evening fashion show at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence’s original railway station re-purposed as an 11,000 sq. ft. event space. Bright columniform banks of light pulsed to electro beats as the new designer, Norwegian-born Andreas Melbostad, sent his collection down the runway.

While the move to more relaxed pants in Asia may signal something to come, the Diesel Black Gold collection was decidedly form-fitting. Matching leather jackets and pant suits, some in striking metallics, were emblazoned with badges and branding, reflecting an overarching sense of expression. Outerwear was particularly strong, with luxe shearling parkas standing out in bright white and black.
The following morning at Pitti was blindingly busy. Men and women in fashionably orchestrated outfits descended on the Fortezza da Basso in a fervent throng, and while it rained in London, and ‘vortexed’ in New York, the weather in Florence was fantastic.

Research for MR Magazine’s shoe story in the upcoming February issue was first priority, and the I Play section in the Cavaniglia pavilion was a sneaker-head dream. While it currently has limited distribution in North America, Italian sports brand Diadora showcased a collection of sneakers that managed to be colorful and somewhat muted at the same time. Italian sneakers are a far cry from the Jordans of America, and have slimmer silhouettes that lend casual shoes a certain elegance. Lotto, another Italian sports brand with somewhat limited visibility in the U.S., shared a similar aesthetic, as did the sneakers from luxury shoe designer Cesare Paciotti.

In the central pavilion, luxury brands showcased the best in tailoring and sportswear. Luxe deconstructed sport coats with mismatched vests were showcased by brands including L.B.M and Brunello Cucinelli. Oversized soles in sneakers and dress shoes was another pervasive trend apparent across all sections of the show, from the luxury market to more casual options. Toggled outerwear took center stage, and spats-inspired Chelsea boots were a surprise trend. Updated camo also ran the gamut, with notable offerings from the Christopher Raeburn-designed collection from Victorinox, and luxury labels like Sand Copenhagen and Luciano Barbera.